Vegetable Scrap Stock (Stop Buying Broth)
Fill a freezer bag with onion skins, carrot ends, and mushroom stems, then turn it into 8 cups of stock for about a dime a cup.
Whole canned tomatoes crushed by hand, simmered with butter, an onion and garlic until it tastes like it took all day.
Five ingredients, one pot, and 45 minutes where you are not standing over it. This is the sauce to learn first, because everything else is a variation on it. Add sausage, add cream, add chili, blend it smooth for pizza, but the base stays the same and it costs about a dollar a serving.
The whole thing turns on buying the right can. Reach for whole peeled tomatoes, not crushed, not diced, not the one with basil already added. Whole peeled is the honest product, and the fifteen seconds you spend squeezing them apart in a bowl gives you a texture no machine and no other can shape can match.
Five tablespoons sounds like a lot for one can of tomatoes. It is not, and it is not there to make the sauce taste like butter. It is there to take the metallic edge off the acid so the tomato flavor comes through sweet and full, which is a job people usually try to do with a spoonful of sugar and never quite manage.
Open the can, tip everything into a big bowl, and squeeze the tomatoes apart with your fingers until the pieces are ragged and roughly thumbnail sized. Hand crushing leaves varied chunks that break down at different rates, so the finished sauce has body instead of the flat uniform texture a blender gives you. Reach in and pull out the hard pale core if any tomato has one, because it never softens.
Chef's note. Squeeze underwater, down in the juice, or you will redecorate your shirt.
Put the tomatoes, butter, onion halves, garlic and the teaspoon of salt in a 3-quart saucepan and set it over medium heat. There is no browning step here on purpose. You are after clean bright tomato flavor rather than a deep roasted one, and the butter needs to melt into the acid slowly instead of frying.
Once it starts bubbling, drop the heat until the surface just barely blips every couple of seconds and leave the lid off. Stir every 10 minutes or so and scrape the bottom. It is done when the sauce has pulled back to about two thirds of its starting volume, the color has shifted from bright red to a deeper brick, and orange fat pools at the edges when you drag the spoon through.
Chef's note. Splattering everywhere? A splatter screen or a lid propped open an inch works. A tight lid does not, because the water has to leave.
Fish out the onion halves with tongs and press them against the side of the pot to squeeze the sauce back in, then mash the softened garlic cloves into the sauce with your spoon or pull them too. The onion has given up its sugars and sulfur compounds and is now just wet fiber that would water the sauce down if you chopped it in. Taste for salt, and expect to add another quarter teaspoon.
Chef's note. Do not throw the onion out. Chop it onto toast with olive oil, or stir it into tomorrow's eggs.
Canneries grade tomatoes on the way in, and the intact, evenly ripe fruit goes down the whole peeled line because that is the product people inspect visually. Broken, undersized and off-grade fruit gets diverted to crushed and diced, then topped up with tomato puree to fill the can, so you are buying lesser tomatoes plus thickener. Diced and crushed products are also usually dosed with calcium chloride, a firming salt that cross-links the pectin in the cell walls and keeps the pieces from collapsing, which is great for a chunky salsa and exactly wrong when you want tomatoes that melt into sauce. Butter fixes acidity better than sugar because it works on two fronts: the fat physically coats your tongue and blunts how sharply the acid registers, and the milk proteins and calcium buffer some of it chemically, while sugar only piles sweetness on top of sourness and leaves the sauce tasting like candy. The onion is doing a slow extraction the entire time, releasing sweetness and savory sulfur compounds into the liquid, and pulling it at the end takes the spent fiber and its water back out with it.
This sauce is better on day two, once the butter has fully emulsified into the tomato and the sharp edges have settled. Make a double batch on Sunday and you have two dinners plus a pizza base.
Keeps 5 days in an airtight container in the fridge and 3 months in the freezer. Freeze it flat in a zip bag so it thaws in 15 minutes under warm water, and reheat gently over low so the butter does not break and go greasy.
Per serving, estimated: 178 cal 3g protein 12g carbs 15g fat
Sometimes, and only if the can carries the DOP seal. Real San Marzanos are lower in seeds and higher in natural sweetness, which shows up in a sauce this short and simple. Plenty of cans just say San Marzano style with no protection behind it, and a good domestic whole peeled tomato beats those every time.
Butter rounds off acidity in a way olive oil does not, because its milk solids and calcium buffer the acid while the fat coats your palate. Olive oil makes a great sauce too, but it reads greener and sharper. If your tomatoes taste harsh out of the can, butter is the better fix.
You can, but it will not reduce, because a slow cooker traps steam. Cook it on low 4 hours with the lid cracked, then finish it in a wide pan on the stove for 15 minutes to drive off the extra water and concentrate the flavor.
One pound of dried pasta, generously. Reserve a half cup of the starchy pasta water and toss the drained pasta in the sauce over low heat for a minute, because the starch in that water helps the sauce grip the noodles instead of sliding off into the bowl.
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